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The evolution of cooking in Catalonia in the past 30 years can be seen by its TV screen time. We recall an interview programme in the 1980s which was produced in a kitchen as the interviewee and interviewer together cooked a dish chosen by the former: the programme was called Con las manos en la masa and it was – obviously – broadcast by TVE.

Years later, these was an onslaught of programmes where, usually before lunch, a professional and highly communicative chef made a recipe either live or pre-recorded as he entertained viewers with jokes, stories or lessons about food. Arguiñano is unquestionably the most famous and long-lasting of all of them. It began with cooking as a different excuse for the star to engage the audience, then came the more explicit or academic part, and today we have competitions, which are becoming extremely popular.

All of this means that there are more and more people willing to taste new foods or recipes, or simply to consider dishes with care and discernment. And this means that chefs in the most exclusive venues, like Jordi Cruz in the case at hand today, are being encouraged to extend their influence far beyond their home restaurant.

On the ground floor of the modern Hotel Mirror, in the heart of the Eixample, in a space that is fully fused with the hotel and its reception desk, the owners have exchanged the advice of Paco Pérez to instead let the television star and Michelin-star-winning Jordi Cruz make his mark and oversee the place. The result is ATEMPO, a pretentious gourmet restaurant in a modern space featuring contrasting black and white and a subtle American 1930s gangster décor, where the carnivalesque costumes of the professional team in the dining room also drew our notice.

This time, we Miguelines allowed ourselves to be led by the fantastic Nerea, the sommelier and maître d’. To start our meal, she suggested an outstanding focaccia fresh out of the oven, lightly scented with Mediterranean herbs. After that, we tried an assortment of foie prepared with different techniques, all of them refined and elegant, although perhaps with a flavour that was too subtle for our palate. They then served us vegetables cooked en papillote with three pieces of pork, a new dish on the menu which we think still needs further refinement so the pork better integrates with the vegetables. To finish the appetiser, Nerea suggested the rigaloni stuffed with roasted meat, goat béchamel and cooked wild mushrooms, a delectable dish by definition with a beautifully dense sauce that perfectly enhanced the béchamel and rigaloni. Honestly, we expected a bit more of that rock ’n’ roll that Jordi Cruz asks of his contestants, a bit more pungent flavours with personality.

Focaccia with fresh herbs

Focaccia amb alls compotados, herbes fresques i oli Arbequina

Assortment of foie

Seqüència de foie gras Focaccia amb te d'ànec, mantega de foie, terrina natural i rostit amb préssec a la vainilla

Vegetables and pork en papillote

Papillota de verduritas i porc

Rigaloni stuffed with roasted meat

Rigaloni amb farcit de rostit, beixamel de cabra i bolets cuinats

While the appetisers didn’t quite cut it, we allowed ourselves to be seduced by much more complex, vibrant main courses. We began with an “Arròs burgès”, which is a kind of cannelloni stuffed with rice, wild mushrooms, foie gras and truffles, but instead of pasta rolled around the stuffing there are thin strips of squab cooked at a low temperature. Boasting a striking flavour, a fascinating mix of textures and a good proportion of rice and pigeon, we started hearing the electric guitar with this dish. We finished with a terrine of beef royale with Japanese mustard, another great dish with an intense flavour and a dark, beautifully dense sauce. Amazing sound!

Arròs burgès

Arròs burgès Camisa de colomí, fongs|bolets, foie gras i trufes|tòfones

Beef terrine with Japanese mustard

Terrina de vedella a la royal amb mostassa japonesa, tostas de pa i compota de chalotte noire

As for the desserts, we had the chance to sample the “Pavlova-Pink Panther”, ideal for fans of sweet, “fun” desserts, and the “Gula Melaka”, a kind of rice pudding with coconut, tapioca and mango. Great contrast of sweet and refreshing.

Pavlova-Pink Panther and Gula Melaka

Pavlova Pink panther i Gola Melaka

Finally, we should highlight the wine list. This is the first restaurant we have visited where you can sample any wine on the list by the glass, plus it has little numbers to indicate which wine pairs best with each dish. Kudos. Hopefully this will soon catch on, since it truly makes the world of wine more accessible and allows diners to drink the best wine for each dish and pocketbook.

It will come as no surprise if one day Atempo earns the star that the chef has already earned in other restaurants that he oversees. Now, six months after it opened, a few chords still need tuning and more songs are needed to thrill diners with its rock ’n’ roll. Good luck, Atempo team!

Score
Food   Wines
71   77
Services   Venue
73   68
Price   MIGUELÍSTARS
45€   2 estavellis
Per person: 4/5 dishes to share +1 glass of wine.  

Where is ATEMPO?

Address: C/ de Còrsega, 255, 08036 Barcelona

Telephone: 932 02 86 85

Timetable: Tuesday 8:30 to 11 pm. Wednesday to Saturday 1:30 to 3:30 pm and 8:30 to 11 pm. Sunday 1:30 to 3:30 pm. Closed Sunday night, all day Monday and Tuesday lunch.

Website: www.themirrorbarcelona.com/es/restaurant